Studio Practice: Morocco Contexts: Dar Slimane Marrakech November to January 2022

Whilst based at Dar Slimane for the art production residency, I made several tours of the country. This proved to be very rewarding and often solo travel can prove isolated but not in this case. It was a way to really engage with the people and culture of Morocco, exclusively because of the warmth and friendliness of the people. Always using buses and public transport ( a personal rule ) cities such as Rabat (capital of Morocco), Tafraoute ( south, close to Anti Atlas mountains ) and Tangier in the far north have contrasting regional identities. This post records some photographs and videos made in close contact of people and place, be it Medina, Medersa, Kasbah, Souk or Palace.

Chefchaouen, also known as the blue city, was a charming place. Climbing bus ride and although I spent only two nights here the town has a strong Moroccan and Andalusian feel, with cold crisp mornings and strong light across the Riu mountains. It is high up and during winter has a quiet local feel, undoubtedly one the visually attractive places in Morocco and with the panoramic views gave my first clear glimpse of the daily spectacle of shifting light conditions, to be experienced at different times and perspectives throughout the journey.

Close to Rabat, the Medersa and grand Mosque at Salé is one of the oldest religious establishments in the country. The Mosque is no go for non Muslims but it’s Medersa is open and is of finest Merenid artistry, with almost every facet of the interior designed, blanketed in intricate decoration, from tiles, zellij up to cedar wood cornice. This really is a marvel, located in the Medina of Salé, a treasure to come across ..

Located close to Rabat, Salé has a vibrant local Medina with the main Mosque and beautiful Medersa located within.

Musee national de la Photographie, Rabat

Musee Mohammed VI D' Art Moderne et Contemprain, Rabat. Here revealed the context of Moroccan modern painting. The Casablanca Group and Art School, particularly Melehri (far wall right) resonated. Currently (2023) the subject of a Tate St.Ives exhibition Casablanca Art School

I stayed near the waterfront at Rabat close to the Musee Phtographie where the waves met rocks to dramatic effect. Around the corner in the harbour, more sheltered expanse of water. In both settings, I noticed on many occasions people, mainly women, watching the sea for long times.

Rabat

The souk at Tetouan is the most authentic I have visited with different trades concentrated in the same area, seemingly trading with each other and customers ..

200 km west of Marrakech is Essaouira fishing harbour. It is stormy and windy and I encountered a forceful Atlantic storm when visiting. The wind is called the Alizee, or Taros in Berber gusting off the Atlantic all year round.

Marrakech


Marrakech: Djemaa el-Fna on eve of World Cup match. Impossible not to get swept along with the football euphoria, Moroccans were empowered by their team reaching the semi finals.

I was based at Dar Slimane and first went to Marrakech on a bicycle that I found at the residency. It is about 14 kilometre and the road in is busy, narrow and dangerous. Many bus trips later the different sections of the city were explored and away from the Medina that I found predominantly touristy, areas like Gueliz identified a modern metropolitan character.

Tangier is a great city, a complex meeting point of many cultures. I spent several days here seeing the American League, St Andrews church where I met the famous Yasinne who gave many insights into the city; Kasbah museum and Hotel de Ville de France ( Andalusian villa influence ) where Matisse stayed and painted through the windows across the Kasbah ( that look exactly as the paintings ) and over an amazing fish lunch, looking across the Strait of Gibraltar to Spain. Tangier, one of the main port gateways between Africa and Europe.

In January 2023 I travelled back to Morocco to see and experience more of the light. This time by bus south from Agadir to the Anti Atlas, and Tafraoute, nestled in Ameln Valley, home to Chleuh Berbers. I read about this place through an article by Tahir Shah and liked the remoteness of it although there are plenty of touring truck caravans from Europe, particularly Germany, yet it still has a remote and isolated feel. It is surrounded by red granite mountains that present a daily light and colour experience .. soft ambers, yellows against purple blues. The purpose of this visit was to absorb as much as I could of this light before starting on a new series of work for Colour Connections where paintings would be inspired by the Morocco journey.